BMS Hand Welted Derby Shoe

A limited series of Hand Crafted Shoes made exclusively for Blue Mountain School. Drawing on a long legacy of traditional and artisanal cordwaining techniques using the finest materials

The Hand Welted Derby Shoe, defined by details and drawing on a long heritage of artisanal craftsmanship.

The upper is crafted from a vachetta leather; the lining, insole and footbed all use a similar vegetable-tanned leather. Each piece is specially treated for durability and comfort before being shaped onto the last — a consistency which ensures material compatibility and cohesion across the boot. The heel counter and toe puff are reinforced through treatment with a chestnut-based paste, a traditional and natural method that enhances the boot’s structure without compromising on traditional techniques. Structurally, a beech wood shank is added to support the arch without compromising on flexibility. The outsole and the stacked leather heel layers are tanned using a recipe based on oak bark, chosen for long-term durability.

The shoe is stitched with a linen thread hand-waxed with beeswax and natural tree resin. The shoes's leather is hand-dyed using an alcohol-based dye; after the dyeing process, it is treated with a special cream to prevent drying and preserve its natural characteristics. It is designed to age well, developing character and patina as it wears.

Shoemaking begins with leather. All of the leathers used to create the hand welted derby shoe are vegetable-tanned by specialist local tanneries. Their production methods are more sustainable than contemporary methods, preserving traditional craftsmanship and regional know-how. The result is both aesthetic, and emotional; vegetable-tanned leather components age better and endure for longer.

The collection is created by an artisanal shoemaker in Perugia, in his home-workshop in the Italian countryside. Custom colours, sizing and other bespoke details are available. For more information on special orders, contact info@bluemountain.school